Mineral water
Some mineral waters have become so famous around the world that they have become synonymous with the overall image of Italian design and products. But, there’s more to it than simply putting water in an attractive bottle.
Italians are so attached to their natural mineral waters that in spite of generally high standard public water supplies, they consume twice the European average and are the third highest consumers in the world. Specific locations have been noted for their natural waters for thousands of years and today, the visitor to Italy will find not only the leading national brands, but hundreds of local offerings that all make their own claims in regard to health benefits. And, it is commonplace to find them on restaurant tables, whether at the high end or a local eatery. Sometimes, the cost of that bottle of water can seem disproprtionately high, given the fact that the actual water has a low unit cost. However, transport costs add considerably to the bottom line. In spite of that, such is the reputation of Italian mineral waters, Italy has become one of the leading exporters with global sales worth billions and more than 250 brands on the world market. Australians have become increasingly familiar with the iconic brands, but the biggest consumers outside of Italy are the United States and the far east. In the latter’s case, a bottle of mineral water can cost more than alcohol due to the transport costs.
The question for consumers is whether this is a case of very good packaging and marketing or is there more to water than meets the eye? The reality is that Italy has been blessed with enormous underground water resources and they are of high quality. Public drinking water supplies are serviced from these acquifers, but the highest quality springs are mostly bottled. Hundreds of municipaltities throughout Italy operate these water supplies and in many areas, the private operators are limited. Tourists often notice that what comes out of a tap in some parts of Italy is nolticeably fresh and clean tasting, even though it doesn’t get as much attention as the bottled variety. Attempts by some regions to turn Italians back to the free tap water or a source where they can fill their own bottles has generally met with protests that the bottled varieties are not only seen as healthier, but taste is an issue. By definition, mineral waters spend many years and in some cases centuries, absorbing minerals from underground sources. This could be soil, limestone or volcanic rock. So, depending on their location and the composition of the underground acquifer, different minerals will be absorbed and in varying concentrations. There will also be a variety of natural carbonation to some and others will be extracted as still water and then carbonated later. Most of these waters are bottled at the source and it is big business. The leading brands involve 160 companies and more than 7000 employees - a major economic contributor apart from the export revenue generated.
Not only is Italy a leading world producer, it is also a leading consumer of its own products. Every citizen of Europe consumes an average of 85 litres of mineral water a year. But, Italians drink 170 litres, with this rising to 200 litres a year in the north. It is not a new phenomenon borne out of clean water shortages, but rather an ancient ability to harness a natural product and discern different properties and tastes in it . In ancient Rome, the public baths were a popular meeting place and brought people of all social classes together. The naturally occurring therapeutic waters created their own rituals and preferences. In sourcing the water, the Romans discovered the different tastes, health benefits and quality, depending on where they found it. And, rather than doing without their favourite drop, they perfected methods to store and transport their favourite varieties. As the centuries rolled by, the spa culture spread with certain waters attributed with specific benefits, whether you were immersing yourself in it or drinking it. These days, the visitor will find spa resorts from the mountains to the sea and islands and they are popular with both locals and visitors. Each region also boasts its own drinking water source and they all vary as to whether they have still, naturally sparkling or carbonated varieties. That all-important mineral content will also change from place to place. Within Italy, you can find around 600 brands, some only available at their local source.
Out of this has grown personal preferences for specific offerings. Some prefer theirs highly naturally carbonated, with a light bubble, still, or with a heavy or light mineral content. Each source will tout its own specific health-giving properties and even “taste.” Books have been devoted to the subject in much the same way you’d expect to find in wine guides. If it is healthy minerals you are after, then look at the label for total dissolved solids or TDS. Italy specifies by law that mineral water must “come from one or more underground sources and has features that are favourable to health.” But, whether the actual health benefits are an incontrovertible scientific fact or not, the minerals do make a large difference when it comes to taste. Italians tend to prefer their waters with some bubbles, but the levels of “fizz” vary widely. Some have distinctive “soft” bubbles, while others are very heavily carbonated. Some are naturally carbonated when they come out of the ground and others have carbon dioxide added. As you travel through Italy, there will be different brands on offer and they will generally be sourced locally. A brand such as San Benedetto, for instance, is bottled near Venice and is noted for its low mineral content. In some areas you will discover that a local brand has been enjoyed since the time of Emperor Nero, while others claim to have been drunk and enjoyed since the time of Leonardo Da Vinci. At restaurants the waiter will normally ask if you would like the water liscia, gassata or leggermente gassata, which is flat, carbonated or lightly carbonated. If you are interested in learning more about local varieties then ask what the most popular water is in the area, what its health benefits claims are and the mineral content so that the whole package can be judged and compared against others. Increasingly, bottled water appears on Australian tables and rather than simply presenting them as something to rehydrate the guests or dilute alcohol intake on a hot day, we can dress them up to encourage the good water habit. With some attractive glassware and a little imagination, simplicity can turn into not only eye appeal, but impressed guests.
WHATEVER YOUR TWIST
Even the plainest, but purest of mineral waters can be transformed with a few simple, but very appealing twists. Make the water jug your centrepiece. Fill the jug with ice and add fresh, ripe citrus fruit slices - lemons, oranges, blood oranges, limes and grapefruit. Add some herbs if that appeals – crushed mint, sage or even basil. Then, sit back and watch
it disappear.